Tag Archives: castles

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Dubrovnik, Croatia Stole My Heart

An impressive entrance into the fortified community of Dubrovnik, Croatia is to arrive by cruise ship in Split and take a bus ride over an unblemished, coastal mountainside to the impressive City Walls, known by locals as the Gradske Zidine.  The massive walls contrast with the fluid ocean surrounding the Southern half of the Old City.  The Gothic and Renaissance archways and palaces are fitting for a Shakespearean theatrical setting.

You enter through one of two gates.  The smaller stone bridge entrance is located at the northeast tip of the wall and named the Ploce Gate.  Guards dressed in striking uniforms stand attention at this gateway and also at the main entrance, the Pile Gate.

The Pile Gate opens its wooden drawbridge with chain pulleys at the western side of the wall.  You follow the Placa to reach the tour guided walk around the wall.  The Placa was a shallow sea channel that divided the city both physically and socially until it was filled during the 12th century.

Before walking around the top of the wall, you enter the Pomorski Muzej, the Maritime Museum on the upper level of St. John’s Fortress.  Fantastic models reveal the evolution of sailing vessels in Croatia and present the increasing fortification of the city walls by adding bastions and towers during the 400 years following its completion in the 13th century.

It is a long walk around the top, and I do not recommend carrying an infant while wearing two inch sandals.  The views are phenomenal and you get a sense of the desperate desire for survival that encompasses the Croatian history.  Even though the temperature is climate within the Old City, the top of the wall is hot.  Vendors and cafes are available with water and snacks so make sure you bring some spending money.

If you opt out of walking the full distance and decide to spend time in the Old Town below, you can descend narrow, open stairs which are crumbling and without any handrails – again, don’t recommend carrying a baby on this tour.  Within the town, it seems gypsies and noblemen live side by side.  The narrow alleyways have small shops, but the items are not notable.  There is a bookstore with a selection of English text; however, once I returned home I realized I could have purchased the same books at my local store at a lower price.  Travel size goods include wine and cheese.

History is the theme of the Old Town and there are unique museums.  A War Photo Limited museum displays the horrendous disadvantages of enduring war.  The Muzej Provoslavne Crkve, the Orthodox Church Museum, presents Balkan and Russian religious icons in addition to contemporary work by Vlaho Bukovac.  The Katedrala Velika Gospa, the Cathedral of Our Lady, is full of religious paintings and relics of saints that are decorated with gold, silver, and jewels.  A Jewish Synagogue is also open for view.    The Crkva Svetog Vhaha, is the 18th century Church of St. Blaise.  The Dominikanski Samostan, the Dominican Monastery is constructed with gothic cloisters and holds a religious paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries.

My favorite aspect of the Old Town is the Knezev Dvor, the Bishops Palace.  Expect to see festivities.  Russian dancers kick and stomp in front of a seated crowd of tourists dining and drinking from silver mugs.  Military guards move in formation as if they too are putting on a dancing performance.

I recommend this trip for families because it is safe and a true medieval town well worth the education and excitement of being exposed to something new.  I also recommend this as a stop for couples who love an amorous setting.

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Secretive Serenity in Ljubljana, Slovenia

To veer off the beaten path of your European vacation venture past Italy and hop on a train that will sweep you through a valley into Ljubljana, Slovenia.  The capital city of Slovenia is an upcoming tourist destination.  The furtive mood combines a sense of hidden energy in a quiet social setting until sunset.  Just as the mysterious beings you’ve feared in your dreaded school literature classes wait until dusk to emerge, the silent old town suddenly fills with peaceful families and eager college students out for a bite of ice cream.  Yes, ice cream lovers stroll along the cobblestone streets with baby carriages and docile conversations in droves.  Anyone who enjoys eating and walking will appreciate the numerous shops, cafes, and bridges intended for socializing.  Once the sun sinks and darkness falls across the river, the town erupts with enthusiastic street parties.

Ljubljana nuzzles against both sides of the Ljubljana River, which carries murky waters in a motionless current.  Throughout history, numerous cultures desired control over its prime setting.  No wonder the Argonauts selected this city to boast their Golden Fleece.  Napoleon saw such strength in the city’s location, he named it the capital of his Illyrian Provinces.  It served as the Roman Emona and the capital of the Province of Carniola.  Today, Ljubljana holds the Congress of the Holy Alliance where European statesmen brainstorm and numerous trade shows.

Invasions by diverse cultures merged the creative ingenuities of dominate cultures.  The buildings combine a Viennese flare with Art Nouveau, Baroque and Renaissance details.  Their local artist, Joze Plecnik, is responsible for many sites, including the Cobblers Bridge where shoemakers established their marketplace.  Now you can find beaded jewelry and collectible posters sold from huts.  Enterprising musicians provide street performances and crumbling buildings house new age clothing shops. 

There are several town squares connected by narrow streets.  Look for the favorite lovers within the community.  The lovebirds were forbidden from tying the knot and in honor of their undying loyalty to one another, the city has a mural of a window where the woman waves her handkerchief at a mural of her soul mate across the courtyard. 

The city is known for its Slovenian Philharmonic Hall, which was one of the first music societies in the world.  Masters such as Haydn, Brahms, Beethoven, and Paganimi became honorary members of the orchestra.  The resident conductor in 1881 was Mahler.  The Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theater is in a Neo-renaissance palace that has symbolic sculptures for dramatic effect.  Throughout the year, Ljubljana hosts fantastical festivals featuring jazz, alternative music, and international arts, among others.

The museums have retained the rare art pieces from moments in history that other countries hastily dismissed.  The Modern Gallery offers paintings, sculptures and prints by Slovenian 20th century artists.  The Museum of Modern History provides a visual display with sound effects of the 20th century Slovenia from Austria-Hungary through World War II and the Tito period.  The National Gallery displays artwork created by Slovenians from the 13th through the 20th centuries with sprinkles of European paintings. The National Museum holds the Vace Situle, a Illyrian bronze urn from the 5th century BC.  Robba’s Fountain was created by the Slovene sculpture Francesco Robba in honor of three rivers that feed Slovenia.  I regret not purchasing a simple sketch of Saint Raphael from a quant antique shop beside a sports bar.

The city is a college town and students congregate on the steps of the pink Franciscan Church built between 1646 and 1660.  Another noteworthy Baroque building is the Cathedral of St Nicholas with main doors that tell about the previous struggles of living as Christians in Slovenia and a side door with images of the Ljubljana diocese.

Aside from the mysterious atmosphere of the Dragon Bridge and the historic French Revolution Square, and the Triple Bridge with its incorporated buildings, and the Town Hall featuring battle scenes, and Vodnik Square surrounded by flowers, fruit venders and vegetable huts, the magnificent hilltop castle is a must see.

You can reach the castle on a tram car or be like the vigorous students and walk up the hill to take a nap in the park designed by Plecnik.  From the Ljubljana Castle you have views of the terra cotta rooftops framing the river.  The castle walls were built during the 16th century and the tower was added within the 19th century.  On the castle grounds are a terrace, a café , a craft shop and gardens. 

If you prefer the great outdoors, there are gorges, brooks and lakes where you can hike.  Health resorts take advantage of the natural springs and waterfalls. 

Ljubljana is a definite yes for families in search of a tranquil destination and also for youthful travels who thrive on adventure.   Visualize an unspoiled Prague and a tranquil Budapest and you will know what to expect.