Tag Archives: Travel

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Dubrovnik, Croatia Stole My Heart

An impressive entrance into the fortified community of Dubrovnik, Croatia is to arrive by cruise ship in Split and take a bus ride over an unblemished, coastal mountainside to the impressive City Walls, known by locals as the Gradske Zidine.  The massive walls contrast with the fluid ocean surrounding the Southern half of the Old City.  The Gothic and Renaissance archways and palaces are fitting for a Shakespearean theatrical setting.

You enter through one of two gates.  The smaller stone bridge entrance is located at the northeast tip of the wall and named the Ploce Gate.  Guards dressed in striking uniforms stand attention at this gateway and also at the main entrance, the Pile Gate.

The Pile Gate opens its wooden drawbridge with chain pulleys at the western side of the wall.  You follow the Placa to reach the tour guided walk around the wall.  The Placa was a shallow sea channel that divided the city both physically and socially until it was filled during the 12th century.

Before walking around the top of the wall, you enter the Pomorski Muzej, the Maritime Museum on the upper level of St. John’s Fortress.  Fantastic models reveal the evolution of sailing vessels in Croatia and present the increasing fortification of the city walls by adding bastions and towers during the 400 years following its completion in the 13th century.

It is a long walk around the top, and I do not recommend carrying an infant while wearing two inch sandals.  The views are phenomenal and you get a sense of the desperate desire for survival that encompasses the Croatian history.  Even though the temperature is climate within the Old City, the top of the wall is hot.  Vendors and cafes are available with water and snacks so make sure you bring some spending money.

If you opt out of walking the full distance and decide to spend time in the Old Town below, you can descend narrow, open stairs which are crumbling and without any handrails – again, don’t recommend carrying a baby on this tour.  Within the town, it seems gypsies and noblemen live side by side.  The narrow alleyways have small shops, but the items are not notable.  There is a bookstore with a selection of English text; however, once I returned home I realized I could have purchased the same books at my local store at a lower price.  Travel size goods include wine and cheese.

History is the theme of the Old Town and there are unique museums.  A War Photo Limited museum displays the horrendous disadvantages of enduring war.  The Muzej Provoslavne Crkve, the Orthodox Church Museum, presents Balkan and Russian religious icons in addition to contemporary work by Vlaho Bukovac.  The Katedrala Velika Gospa, the Cathedral of Our Lady, is full of religious paintings and relics of saints that are decorated with gold, silver, and jewels.  A Jewish Synagogue is also open for view.    The Crkva Svetog Vhaha, is the 18th century Church of St. Blaise.  The Dominikanski Samostan, the Dominican Monastery is constructed with gothic cloisters and holds a religious paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries.

My favorite aspect of the Old Town is the Knezev Dvor, the Bishops Palace.  Expect to see festivities.  Russian dancers kick and stomp in front of a seated crowd of tourists dining and drinking from silver mugs.  Military guards move in formation as if they too are putting on a dancing performance.

I recommend this trip for families because it is safe and a true medieval town well worth the education and excitement of being exposed to something new.  I also recommend this as a stop for couples who love an amorous setting.

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Florida Island Hopping for Sunny Adventures

Needing a breather from wearing layers of corduroy and wool during the harsh winter, we traveled to the Southwest tail of Florida for a long weekend of island hopping.  Admittedly, the weather along the Gulf of Mexico drops during January and February, but tourists, mainly from the Mid-West with a sprinkling of Europeans, pull out their linens and fashionable sweat-suits to absorb the fully developed resort communities nestled within lush tropical vegetation.  If your goal is to relax and decompress your brain, you will be in paradise.

Finding the wide road that leads to the toll bridge onto the first island is a bit hairy after a day of traveling.  You must pass through a crass city and desolate subdivisions.  In some areas, skip stopping to ask for directions, just in case it’s not safe.  Once you maneuver through the zigzagging highways, you suddenly happen upon a sun-washed coastline.  I rolled down my window to take in the euphoric scents and mesmeric sounds.  Houses on stilts line the waterways and boats parade merrily from sunrise until well after sunset.

Sanibel Island’s main attraction is to collect shells from the beach.  Sanibel faces the Gulf of Mexico and is blessed with high tides depositing assortments of shells twice a day.  You are permitted to arrive with a bucket and haul as many shells from their natural environment as you like, as long as you do not remove any that house a living creature.  For those who are not familiar with how to recognize a living creature within a shell, have no fear.  There is no policing; however, please consider the value of every life no matter how small.  Pets are allowed on the beaches in Sanibel, but do take a bag and scoop any contributions your favorite companion deposits on the ground.  Bathrooms are provided so you can change clothes or spend all day in the sun without taking a break.

If the beach doesn’t keep you entertained the entire weekend, you can rent bikes, canoes, boats, and kayaks.  If you are 16 years or older, you can purchase a fishing license and throw a line either from the pier or from a deep sea vessel.  Golf and tennis is popular.  The most visible attraction is the lighthouse located on the south tip of the island.  If you stay alert, you will spot osprey and eagles nesting in the area.

Sanibel Island is more for busy tourists while its neighbor, Captiva Island, allows nature to dominate the scenery.

A bridge connects Sanibel Island to Captiva Island where development has been reluctant to clear the gorgeous jungle.  Captivating is the best description.  There is more of an old town feel to Captiva compared to Sanibel, but most everything you need can be purchased prior to 8 p.m. when the businesses close.  Plan to spend double what you are accustomed to paying for bags of chips and boxes of crackers.  Expect heavy foods with menus featuring fried fish and buttered starches.

We stayed in a rental home located at the tip of the island in Captiva.  Shops and restaurants are walking distance, but don’t wear stilettos.  The island décor includes gravel driveways and dirt paths.  Tourists prefer athletic shoes and campy sandals.  Beware the constant traffic racing to the larger resorts.  It feels safe and lazy in the isolated community but its popularity attracts lots of people in a hurry to have fun.

For a flavorful view of the sunsets, families gather at the Mucky Duck restaurant.  Live music stirs the playful atmosphere where you can pass the time by swinging a ring toward a tree to catch it on a hook or fight little old ladies for their picnic tables.  At long last, the sun kisses the horizon and a chill rises through your sleeveless dress.

Have no fear.  After a long dinner, you have an early evening walk back to your resort and timeless moments entertaining yourself in private, whether in your swimming pool, hot tub, in front of the tube or with a book.

Having exhausted the thrill of sun bathing in the rain and wishing the Jacuzzi could grow even hotter, you can visit a historic church and stroll through its old cemetery.   There are upscale clothing stores and general stores with fancy crackers.  If you are like me, shopping for merchandise you can purchase back home at a lower price does not hold your attention.  Make sure you visit the state parks for hiking, biking or even driving around the lakes and exotic foliage.  The area is superior for bird watching, even if you haven’t previously noticed the flying creatures.  Flocks of roseate spoonbills, snowy egrets, and tufted-tailed ducks cover the numerous lakes.  It is a precious sight.

For a more adventurous day, take a day cruise to the nearby islands.  The options are endless.  You can join a group picnic where there will be music on an undeveloped beach, or travel to an exclusive island for lunch at a café.  An excellent choice is Useppa Island.

Useppa Island can only be reached by boat and one must have permission to dock at its marina.  En route, you pass rustic houses on stilts where fishermen live during the season.  The homes cannot be rebuilt after being destroyed by the elements or hurricanes.

Useppa Island is a collection of white homes, all privately owned by members of the Useppa Island club.  In order for non-members to stay on the island, you must either be a guest of an owner, or sign up for a trial membership by paying a large deposit, possibly higher than the cost of your room at the inn or house rental fees.

If you take the plunge and choose to pay the monthly membership fees and purchase a home on the island, don’t sell your primary residential home.  Owners are not permitted to live on the island year round.

The name, Useppa, was derived from mispronouncing its main resident, “Joseffa,” during the late 1700s.  The Spanish pirate, Jose Gaspar, kidnapped the Spanish princess, Joseffa de Mayorga.  When Joseffa refused his advances, he imprisoned her on the island as punishment.

A boardwalk and bridges lead you across the island.  You are surrounded by blooms of snake cacti hanging from exotic trees.  The path winds amid Old Florida architecture in white wood with wide windows.  The artistic owners decorate their porches with clever signs and rare shells and turtles dig holes within a few feet from your toes.  An elegant inn serves a filling lunch and saves you enough time to swing on the beach as ships sail passed, little more than a swimmer’s distance away.  Amenities include a human-size chess board, a crystal clear swimming pool, and immaculate tennis courts.  A historic museum sells books and Native American jewelry and a lovely bait shop sells finer resort wear.

The islands located along Florida’s southwest coast are geared toward family vacations.  Hearty meals, languid days on the beaches, and light nature hikes leave plenty of time for congregating in your room at the end of the day.  Don’t anticipate any night life or zealous activities.  It is beautiful and a definite escape from a tense lifestyle and the setting of my fantasy novel, Lochness.

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Rejuvenate and Get a Date in Turkey’s Miracle Mud

Embark on an ancient quest along the Mediterranean coast for a healing indulgence. The Dalyan River (Dalyan Bogazi, known as a strait) in Turkey has natural silt deposits abundant with therapeutic properties.  Whether you arrive at the mouth of the river on a small cruise ship or reach a nearby town, such as Marmaris, via minibuses, travel down the twisting waterway on your journey into the pastime secrets for ridding your body of aches and pains, dissolving skin wounds and clearing your mind.

The Dalyan River opens at Istuzu Beach where sunbathing beside loggerhead turtles is a passion. Plan to socialize with the sensuous locals and enjoy watching the protected baby turtles. Those turtles cross the Atlantic every year. The beach gets crowded with eager souls seeking mates, fun-loving couples, and boisterous families.

Charming wooden boats with refreshments and music transport you up the strait to the Sultaniye hot springs and mud baths. Tall reeds provide secluded nooks and primitive wooden buildings on stilts used for fishing prove the customs never died. While the social scene is active, the still river transports you to an ancient mood where tall grasses and tantalizing cliffs smell of sweet silt. The atmosphere eases away anxieties.

Resort clubs line the waterway. Many are dating hotspots where the stars shine overhead and the river lazes alongside the social scene. Others are family resorts, suitable for relaxed sunny days.

Activities revolve around mingling and rejuvenating your mind, body and spirit. A few shops appear, clustered within each tiny community but the supplies are limited, aside from handmade rugs.

Rosy mountains loom over the fertile river.  When you least expect to spot civilization, elaborate, Lycien tombs appear on mountainsides.  Founded during the 9thcentury BC, a mysterious town named, Kaunos, is known for its citizens having yellow skin and eyes.  Their unusual coloring is credited to the high mineral content of the Dalyan River and as a result of an outbreak of epidemic malaria.  Experience the Mortal Combat mood of the extraordinary theatre, acropolis, basilica and city walls.  Carved red stones shape the columns and architectural details, which became chic in 9thcentury Kaunos as a result of an invitation by the ruler of Caria named, Mausolus of Halicarnassus.

If you choose to visit the hot springs and mud baths multiple times in order to completely heal, you can stay as close as Dalyan, Turkey.  Motels, restaurants, and disco clubs of this coastal tourist community spills into the Dalyan River. Shops offer contemporary merchandise. Rug retailers weave carpets to your specifications. There is a Club Med, mingle and mate feel.

The mud baths provide clean, paved and civilized community pools with changing rooms, showers and a snack bar, as opposed to being a stinky hole in the ground. First you enter a hot pool of water that holds mildly radioactive minerals. At your leisure, you enter a second pool filled with grainy mud, teeming with calcium, sulphur, iron, nitrates, potassium, and mineral salts. Mud bathers cover their bodies with the oozing soil and bask in the sun until it dries. Return to the mud bath to loosen the body mud pack from your skin and then use the fresh water at the showers for a good scrubbing.  For an extra-double duty dose of ridding your body of stubborn minerals, join the line where a cabana boy sprays you from head to toe with a high powered water-hose.

Refreshing is the main word that comes to mind.  Light-footed and peaceful are two others.  The rejuvenating mud heals the body, eradicates painful joints, and removes toxins.

Entire families participate and everyone interacts with a communal manner. It is a bonding experience for all who attend, and all kinds of folks delve into the mysterious Dalyan River.

Don’t wear fine jewelry because the rising heat in the pools can damage stones. Leave valuables at your hotel. You can’t carry them into the pools and by midday the mud baths are crowded. Most importantly, heal.

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Nature Thrives and Mingling Jives in Lively Costa Rica

Whether you want to expand your consciousness or party until you drop, Costa Rica is an affordable destination. You can fly into San Jose, the capital, and choose between inexpensive motels and luxurious hotels. It is good to stay downtown in a place with enough shops and restaurants on site that you won’t be tempted to wander into the crime-filled streets.

Don’t be alarmed if you are mistaken for a prostitute. So many men spread rumors about the benefits of legalized prostitution in Costa Rica that male tourists think every woman walking through a hotel lobby or looking for butterflies along the road is for hire.

Security is tight, because non Costa Ricans sweep into the country and rob the banks, particularly in towns near Nicaragua. Guards patrol the banks with machine guns. Occasionally, truck beds traveling on the public roads are filled with armed men.

After a night of recuperating from your air flight, you can travel to your final destination either by bus or commuter plane. There is a huge difference between the west and east coasts of Costa Rica. Surfing, white water rafting, horse riding, scuba diving, and deep sea fishing is popular on the west coast. The east coast attracts a more subdued clientele, people accustomed to the Caribbean islands with more alcohol and less outdoor activities.

Throughout the country are national parks filled with wildlife, waterfalls, volcanoes, and exotic plants. Some rain forests seem sparse compared to lush woodlands of North America. Once you appreciate the lack of groundcover, you will notice the monkeys on branches watching the sun set. Brilliant birds fill the skies. Sluggish alligators congest the rivers. Snakes are under every bush and thousands of ants dominate the dirt paths. Flowers are abundant and you can pay for a tour through landscaped grounds and then ride a sky-lift to the top of mountains.

Costa Ricans are easy-going and friendly. Someone is always willing to accommodate your every desire. Don’t expect to suffer because of the simplified lifestyle. At the base of the volcanoes are day spas where you can play in the hot springs, get a massage or disco the night away under an active volcano. You can find extremely low-priced souvenirs in shop huts and small marketplaces. Don’t forget to visit pre-Columbian settlement sites.

At the hotels along the coastline you can mix and mingle at swimming pool bars. Shacks in tiny communities are available for hard-core surfers to stay for little rent per day. If you get inspired, you can find inexpensive property for your vacation home. There are clusters of North Americans, Germans and other nationalities, mainly in the northern towns. Want to keep a boat in Costa Rica? Plan to pay a high tax on all imported goods. Costs for upkeep and repairs includes exorbitant taxes for parts. Similar issues arise with maintaining houses.

Costa Rica is an appropriate destination for college students, families and couples. The ingratiating social scene welcomes single travelers as well.

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Dancing on the Nile River, Egypt

For a peaceful getaway that allows you to read and laze in the steamy desert, hope onto a flatboat and slink down the Nile. You embark from Cairo, which is a thriving metropolis filled with favorite franchises. Evenings within the hotels lining the river entice lovers to take languishing walks amid the chains of lights arranged on sundecks and strung on boats.

The Egyptian Museum is a must see. It houses artifacts from the numerous Egyptian eras. Outside, the pyramids have been stripped and are bare  Most of the wall paintings have faded and the etchings are sometimes faint. The preserved statuary and treasures have been moved into the museum where you can get a close look at the amazing craftsmanship.

There are several pyramids to see in the area surrounding Cairo, and each offers a distinct adventure. To reach the Giza Plateau where Cheops and Chephren overlook the Sphinx you can arrive on camelback with the heat from the desert brushing the hair off your face and the music from Sir Laurence of Arabia playing inside your head. There are several additional pyramid sites, such as Zoser which opened to the public recently and Meidum which must be unlocked in order to enter. After sunset, you can visit a hookah bar and then stroll to the Sphinx and watch the identical lazar-light show you’ve admired when the character, Jaws, tries to murder James Bond. It will be hot at night. Suggest wearing similar summer dresses or sleeveless tops instead of jeans.

Careful with the taxi rides when traveling through Cairo. The drivers tend to find routes far from your destination to increase the prices. Be prepared to either enjoy the ride or consider paying a tourist escort to haggle on your behalf.

After a few days of sightseeing in Cairo, board one of numerous flatboat cruise ships located on the Nile River. Each is designed like a gilded casino with crystal chandeliers and elaborate Louis IVX furniture. The cabins are small but serviceable with European electrical outlets and simple furnishings. The flatboats are smaller than ocean cruisers and the staff provides personalized attention to your dietary preferences and tour excursion choices. The intimate dining halls encourage passengers to become fast friends.

Expect to be entertained by dancing, playing games, and performing theatrical skits with your new pals. The gift shops sell belly dancing outfits and Arabic robes for costume parties. A popular game is dancing in circles while the band determines the moments for diving on the floor to grab spoons. Passengers stay awake well into the wee hours of the following morning, celebrating the alluring setting of fertile banks and contrasting vastness of the arid desert.

As you voyage down the Nile, merchants pull up in colorful rowboats. It was my favorite moment. They toss their goods over the rails, calling out good will and quoting the prices. If you are interested you throw money to them and somehow, young boys manage to catch the coins before they fall into the dark Nile. If you lack the impulse to purchase a lace tablecloth or cotton dress, you will receive another choice in your hands as soon as you drop the goods.

With each city, you learn about a particular time of Egyptian history. Destinations with impressive complexes include Luxor, Karnak, and the Valley of the Kings. You can take a day trip by airplane to see the giant images of Ramses II. The boats dock at small communities such as Esna, where the surprisingly complete Temple of Khnum merges with the present day homes. The Temple of Horus in Edfu reveals man’s destructive nature during wartime. Men striped the temple of its original artwork and replaced it with Christian icons which were removed. Aswan offers shops and restaurants, but don’t stray because the residents have a way of staring that makes you feel vulnerable.

The playful energy and constant activities are ideal for collegiate travelers. Although more than one time I didn’t feel safe, the walking tours are comfortable for children. Once on the flatboat, the atmosphere was wonderful for large families of cousins, grandparents, married siblings and their kids traveling as a group.

Keep in mind the intense heat during the summer months, which deterred all passengers except those accustomed to the temperatures in Florida from taking several tours when the humid heat reached over 100 degrees. Those Norwegians dropped like flies.

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Sultry Heat in Kusadasi, Turkey

For an exotic mix of sensuous cultures and sultry heat, I took a cruise from Istanbul, Turkey through the South Aegean Sea.   My husband and I were angry with each other when we arrived in Kusadasi, Turkey.  We spoke little as we exited the small ship and made our way past a Turkish destroyer ship and all of its guards.  We had been in Turkey for a few days and were accustomed to seeing soldiers with machine guns guarding benign looking buildings.  It was common for soldiers to force families out of their vehicles and to perform searches that our tour escort insisted was nothing to be alarmed about.  Entering a port full of military vessels was not too intimidating.

My husband walked a few feet in front of me, giving us space.  When I reached the guard, I asked whether we could have a tour of their vessel because my husband was a war buff.  The soldier ran up the gang plank and then returned with an invitation from the captain to dine with him that evening.

That certainly lifted my husband’s spirits and resolved our argument – he was the one in the wrong anyway, right?  We spent the day in romantic bliss.  We ate at a rustic café.  The food was wonderful, and Turkish meals are my favorite.  When I went to the restroom, it was ironic that I had to pay because there was no back wall and several donkeys peered into the ladies room.  Perhaps, the café owners were raising money to complete construction.

We strolled to the bazaar. A shopowner shouted, “Lucky man.” To my husband, I think because I had pinned a tiny evil-eye to his shirt. It was supposed to ward off negative intentions from others. My husband took it as a compliment in his having me as a wife.

By then, in a jovial mood, he sat in a throne-like chair at a leather shop, like a sultan drinking the complimentary wine, ordering the owner to shorten my skirt three times before he agreed to purchase it.  By the time he finished, the skirt was so short, two little girls giggled as I walked through the winding passages.

We discovered an isolated dock beside a restaurant.  As is tradition when we travel, my husband tried to persuade me to go skinny dipping.  Several men stepped out of the restaurant to watch my husband jump into the freezing water.  I let my naked toe touch the tip and kept my knickers in place.  No way was I going to get arrested for taking off my clothes in a Muslim country.

At the end of the day, we dressed for our dinner affair.  We met the captain and the head officers of the Turkish destroyer ship on the deck.  They served their only dish, mush with champagne.  Incredibly handsome soldiers surrounded us, standing at attention beside torpedoes and other gigantic weapons.  We learned much about the Turkish work force.  For instance, the children take aptitude tests when they reach 14 years old.  The scores are used for placing the students within their professions.  Therefore, if a child is determined to be a leader, he is trained for that position; while if a child is found suitable for less prestigious work, he will never be promoted.

The Turkish culture is erotic and the styles are vivacious.  Although the security is tight for the civilians, it feels safe for tourists who are willing to pay for a tourist escort or else stay within the main public destinations.  Turkey is one of my top choices as an adventurous destination and ancient charm.

Every few months, my husband announces, “Lucky man.” Then, he then recalls the compliment he received for being with me in Turkey.

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Secretive Serenity in Ljubljana, Slovenia

To veer off the beaten path of your European vacation venture past Italy and hop on a train that will sweep you through a valley into Ljubljana, Slovenia.  The capital city of Slovenia is an upcoming tourist destination.  The furtive mood combines a sense of hidden energy in a quiet social setting until sunset.  Just as the mysterious beings you’ve feared in your dreaded school literature classes wait until dusk to emerge, the silent old town suddenly fills with peaceful families and eager college students out for a bite of ice cream.  Yes, ice cream lovers stroll along the cobblestone streets with baby carriages and docile conversations in droves.  Anyone who enjoys eating and walking will appreciate the numerous shops, cafes, and bridges intended for socializing.  Once the sun sinks and darkness falls across the river, the town erupts with enthusiastic street parties.

Ljubljana nuzzles against both sides of the Ljubljana River, which carries murky waters in a motionless current.  Throughout history, numerous cultures desired control over its prime setting.  No wonder the Argonauts selected this city to boast their Golden Fleece.  Napoleon saw such strength in the city’s location, he named it the capital of his Illyrian Provinces.  It served as the Roman Emona and the capital of the Province of Carniola.  Today, Ljubljana holds the Congress of the Holy Alliance where European statesmen brainstorm and numerous trade shows.

Invasions by diverse cultures merged the creative ingenuities of dominate cultures.  The buildings combine a Viennese flare with Art Nouveau, Baroque and Renaissance details.  Their local artist, Joze Plecnik, is responsible for many sites, including the Cobblers Bridge where shoemakers established their marketplace.  Now you can find beaded jewelry and collectible posters sold from huts.  Enterprising musicians provide street performances and crumbling buildings house new age clothing shops. 

There are several town squares connected by narrow streets.  Look for the favorite lovers within the community.  The lovebirds were forbidden from tying the knot and in honor of their undying loyalty to one another, the city has a mural of a window where the woman waves her handkerchief at a mural of her soul mate across the courtyard. 

The city is known for its Slovenian Philharmonic Hall, which was one of the first music societies in the world.  Masters such as Haydn, Brahms, Beethoven, and Paganimi became honorary members of the orchestra.  The resident conductor in 1881 was Mahler.  The Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theater is in a Neo-renaissance palace that has symbolic sculptures for dramatic effect.  Throughout the year, Ljubljana hosts fantastical festivals featuring jazz, alternative music, and international arts, among others.

The museums have retained the rare art pieces from moments in history that other countries hastily dismissed.  The Modern Gallery offers paintings, sculptures and prints by Slovenian 20th century artists.  The Museum of Modern History provides a visual display with sound effects of the 20th century Slovenia from Austria-Hungary through World War II and the Tito period.  The National Gallery displays artwork created by Slovenians from the 13th through the 20th centuries with sprinkles of European paintings. The National Museum holds the Vace Situle, a Illyrian bronze urn from the 5th century BC.  Robba’s Fountain was created by the Slovene sculpture Francesco Robba in honor of three rivers that feed Slovenia.  I regret not purchasing a simple sketch of Saint Raphael from a quant antique shop beside a sports bar.

The city is a college town and students congregate on the steps of the pink Franciscan Church built between 1646 and 1660.  Another noteworthy Baroque building is the Cathedral of St Nicholas with main doors that tell about the previous struggles of living as Christians in Slovenia and a side door with images of the Ljubljana diocese.

Aside from the mysterious atmosphere of the Dragon Bridge and the historic French Revolution Square, and the Triple Bridge with its incorporated buildings, and the Town Hall featuring battle scenes, and Vodnik Square surrounded by flowers, fruit venders and vegetable huts, the magnificent hilltop castle is a must see.

You can reach the castle on a tram car or be like the vigorous students and walk up the hill to take a nap in the park designed by Plecnik.  From the Ljubljana Castle you have views of the terra cotta rooftops framing the river.  The castle walls were built during the 16th century and the tower was added within the 19th century.  On the castle grounds are a terrace, a café , a craft shop and gardens. 

If you prefer the great outdoors, there are gorges, brooks and lakes where you can hike.  Health resorts take advantage of the natural springs and waterfalls. 

Ljubljana is a definite yes for families in search of a tranquil destination and also for youthful travels who thrive on adventure.   Visualize an unspoiled Prague and a tranquil Budapest and you will know what to expect.

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Venice Is for Huffing in Heels

Named in honor of the goddess Venus, 117 islands on the marshy, saltwater lagoon along the northeastern coast of Italy create an alluring atmosphere of maritime mastery and classical theatres.  Venetians love luxury and share their refined tastes in silks, architecture and masks with the same flare they adopted during their wealthiest period from the 13th century through the end of the 17th century.  Venice is the place to go if you are a fan of the Renaissance period with all its music, operas, fashions and history.

You can arrive by train, which builds anticipation as you stop at small depots where homeless looking teenagers board carrying backpacks and sleeping bags.  No vagabonds are allowed in Venice for the night.  The train rattles across murky lagoons and passed parking lots full of Italian residents who work in Venice but live on the mainland.

After the shock of a rundown train station full of conflicting movements of hectic travelers and lazing hippies, you exit into a world of delight with the same electrifying energy of Diagon Alley on the other side of the Leaky Cauldron’s wall in the Harry Potter series.

The sun streams down on a canal outside the doorway.  Facing you are magnificent facades with quoins and scrolled edges in terra cottas and vermilion.  Vaporettos drift calmly, surpassed by speeding flatboat taxies.  Bridges span the waterway and alleyways lined with delightful hotels in Venetian, Egyptian and cathedral designs branch in several directions.

“I love Venice.  I can just see Mozart lounging on a vaporetto during the period when he lived here,” I announced dreamily to my dear Yankee husband, whom I refer to as Zip.

Zip replied curtly, “That’s Vienna.  Mozart never lived here.  People always get Venice and Vienna confused.”

I accepted his reprimand regarding my stupidity with dignity.  We dismissed the matter by tumbling down the steps, dragging our luggage behind.  Ideally, your hotel will be on the same island as the train depot.  Otherwise, you will need to take a taxi to your hotel because crossing the bridges is cumbersome after a while.  If you arrive by boat on the opposite side of Venice, you will definitely want to take a taxi down the winding canals to your hotel doorstep, which is quite fascinating.

We examined the city on foot, with a stroller in tow, so we wouldn’t have to carry the little whipper snapper.  Zip, eager to take in the entire city, including all its crumbling, desolate, and bustling dead ends, barreled through crowds of casual walkers, leaping up and over bridge after bridge, after bridge.  I kept mentioning that I sure could imagine Mozart living in Venice.  He played classical music for the rich folks during the winter seasons and spent summers farther north.

“No.  It’s Vienna,” was the constant reply.

We moved so quickly, I soon lost my strength and complete strangers broke free from their understanding companions to help me lift my stroller up and over the steps, only for me to chase my husband down a crowded alley as he searched for more suitable shops.  No matter which alleys we venture down, we eventually returned to the same bridge.

Finally, after several hours of our adventurous wanderings, I asked Zip if we could rest at the top of the bridge and take in the lovely beauty of the scene.  I caught my breath as a vaporetto ambled below our bridge.  The enveloping earthy autumn colors painted on the surrounding textures soothed my senses.

And then, lo and behold, I noticed an enormous sign – eight feet tall and five feet wide – that took up most of the side of a building next to the bridge.  It began something like, “This is the house where Mozart lived,” and then gave details of his life in Venice.

I nudged my husband and proudly declared, “See, I know history.  I watch TV.”

On your first day in Venice, you will have an overwhelming urge to purchase theatrical masks; however, after a while, the excitement wears off.  Be daring and venture down those intriguing alleyways alongside interconnecting canals.  Find out what’s on the other side of the next bridge.  The decaying neighborhoods have the same beauty as the refurbished sections.  The accessibility to the mansions is breathtaking, just an arm’s length from a boat.  A glide to one side and there you are, inside the foyer of a palace.

Key points of the city include the Basilica of St Marks where you can receive blessings by visiting the bones of the disciple of Jesus Christ.  It is said that the Venetians stole his bones from another province, so possibly there are negative vibes mingled into the environment.   Harry’s Bar boasts having masterful writers and artists create their greatest works within its walls.  Ernest Hemingway is one of the most famous regulars and you can purchase several of his books at the bar.  It is a viable spot to meet enterprising young people and for examining the older couples who actually have enough money to order the colorful drinks.

Boat tours to nearby islands expand your romantic surroundings.  Each island has its own unique flavor.  A monastery fortress fills one private destination.  A fisherman’s island is lit with yellow buildings and vibrant fabrics cover the doorways.  The most amazing glassware is made on the islands, purchased by famous actors and politicians.  Supposedly, during the Renaissance era, glass contacts were available.

You don’t have pay top dollar for a meal.  Numerous inexpensive pizzerias and corner bars have simple dishes.  Forget watching your weight.  At every turn and within every drinking establishment are selections of ice cream and Italian desserts.  Save enough cash to pay the high price of a midnight sail on a vaporetto.

Venice is the perfect destination for everyone, whether you are a poetic college kid, a grumpy couple, or a rambunctious family.  Go, and take in as much as you can.  It is a place you will return to many times.

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I Survived Another Road Trip to Memphis

At least once a year, I leave the safety of Florida’s flat land and subtropical climate headed for Memphis, Tennessee. Whether I trek down wide interstates, winding state highways, drive in the dark of night, or pack blankets for the temperature change, there is no pleasant route to reach Memphis. Every time I pull into the sultry city with all its bright lights and endless churches and hearty restaurants, I feel as if I’m near death.

This year, I selected the smallest, most disjointed, roads to the Mo-town of Rock’n’Roll. With my husband, youngest child and two dogs, we exited the Sunshine State easily, however, our luck faltered once we reached Tifton, Georgia.

My Yankee husband, Zip, wanted fresh vegetables. I told him, in the South, eating vegetables doesn’t necessarily mean you are eating well. We stopped at a greasy steakhouse decorated with adorable ironwork shaped like buccaneers and cheerful saddles dangling from the ceiling. My son asked why the children’s menu offered three low-calorie dishes. Unless it was low-cal, it was loaded with animal fat. Even the steamed asparagus was doused in a heavy sauce.

We disagreed on what to do at 9 o’clock at night. Zip won, so we did not stop to refill the tank and headed toward Birmingham, Alabama.

We didn’t make it. Along the unlit highway, every gasoline station was closed. We panicked when the gas mileage announced we had twenty more miles worth of fuel. Even if the stations were closed, we tried using our credit cards to purchase gas, but they were shut down for the night. We passed one tiny motel, and another, all too offensive for us to stop. With three miles worth of gas in our tank we reluctantly pulled up to what used to be a Days Inn. The establishment had lost its franchise.

The motel required cash up front, hourly rates and a copy of my husband’s driver’s license. The dogs refused to sleep in bed with us and stood guard at the door, growling until 6 am when our neighbors finally got quiet. My husband insisted bugs were crawling on him and there was a brawl outside our door. There was one towel and washcloth and definitely the rooms weren’t cleaned between cash up front customers.

In the morning, my husband was thrilled the car drove 100 mph without our feeling it. We zigzagged our way across Alabama and think we saw the plant where ghosts were featured on Ghost Hauntings. Flashing lights demanded my husband pull over. Tension in the car was mounting. Thank goodness for headphones and a good book.

We missed the exit down highway 78 and decided the Cullman route was more scenic. Every fifteen minutes my son asked, “How much longer?” It was a long haul full of grumpy faces, when we crossed into Tennessee.

Like a pack mule spotting a red barn, Zip gunned the engine as we crossed the line. One of two sheriffs spotted us and patiently stood in the rain as I tried to find where my husband had thrown his driver’s license twenty minutes earlier when he received the previous ticket. This Tennessee sheriff was kind and chose not to arrest my husband for reckless driving.

Once we were showered and rested, we appreciated the calming energy in Memphis. Steady rain fell upon the lakes around our room as we rallied for fun. There are many museums in Memphis, one for every taste. The Pink Palace was built by a man who was declined membership in the local country club, so he went bankrupt building Xanadu to prove he deserved to be a member. The Dixon Art Museum has masterpieces and outstanding shows. Even the University of Memphis art museum offers a special display of mummies and Egyptian art. Because Memphis was named for an Egyptian town, people who collect Egyptian artifacts seemed to settle there long ago, and then buried their treasures in their backyards. The Science Museum is an interactive play zone for kids.

Music lovers head downtown for Beale Street for an afternoon and night of blues. Bands play on the sidewalks and the nightclubs are for letting your hair down. Most every bar in Memphis has live bands.  It’s the best thing about the city.

Restaurants cater to health conscious people who enjoy hearty meals. They are packed full of handsome, outdoorsy folks who love to talk, talk, talk, talk, talk. The energy is comforting.

A trip down to the river is a must. Old Mississippi River boats stayed docked at the cobblestone ramp. The show HeIlcats captures the mood. Memphis Beat romanticizes any bad boy atmosphere.

Outside Memphis is fertile farmland – proof Tennessee deserved to win awards for being the most beautiful and cleanest state in the country. The small town restaurants provide the traditional form of vegetables: fried ochre, fried beans, fried corn. Even bread is fried. Zip got his vegetables and every one of them was fried. I opted to stick with the salad bar. Low and behold, my choices were Cole slaw or shrimp.

To return home, I decided to try the age-old advice – “You got to go North to get South.” The theory about how the interstate to Nashville and Chattanooga is faster than the disjointed roads across Alabama is false. It rained and we drove 50 mph. Despite the traffic lights and low speeds, and the tornado spinning through Alabama, it still was a better drive. With no driving visibility, we stopped in Elizabeth, Tennessee, hardly passed Nashville. We couldn’t unpack the car and my husband was dismayed to learn it was unlawful for liquor stores to sell bottle openers.

Late the following morning we dragged ourselves out of bed and moaned when we saw snow. It was a long haul over the mountains and down the state of Georgia. Zip lost his fancy pants in the hotel. He already had a speeding ticket from our previous Tennessee trip. I drove the speed limit home, listening to my husband complain at every mileage sign. There is nothing like seeing that first palm tree even if it is at a truck stop. We didn’t make good time, but thankfully we were alive when we arrived.

I thought my husband would never visit Memphis with me again.  Alas, family life is good.  He forgot all the bad times as soon as we walked into our house and is planning our next trip.